From the vine to the glass, from the vineyard to the winery.
There are many tasks that are carried out throughout the season in the vineyards and wineries. The most important of these are detailed below. If you want more information on video, we invite you to watch the documentary, “El vino nace en la viña” (Wine is born in the vineyard); preferably with a glass of your favorite sherry.
The quality of the grape is determined by its health.
The vine, like any other crop, is exposed to diseases and pests that must be kept under control. The most common are downy mildew fungi and powdery mildew, renamed in the Marco as ‘cenizo’, plus gray rot and attacks by grape moth, mites and green midge. In recent years the presence of the beetle ártica has also been frequent. It was commonly found in the beet fields of the area before the reduction of this crop brought by the closing of the local sugar factories.
To maintain healthy production, various preventive treatments are applied during the annual cycle of the vine in several passes, from five to eight depending on weather conditions. Among these operations is sulfur treatment, the best remedy to combat powdery mildew and red spider. It is usually carried out during flowering. If done properly, it is sufficient to sulfur once with two passes spaced 15 to 20 days apart.
It is a great celebration in Jerez where the winegrowers gather their families to harvest the year’s crop.
In the small plots of the members of the cooperative of Las Angustias (Covi-Jerez), manual harvesting predominates, rescued by many winegrowers to safeguard the quality of the grapes after the irruption of machines in the Marco. The grape clusters are cut without interruption, with knife or scissors in hand, and transferred almost immediately to the winepresses to avoid direct exposure to the sun and to begin the wine process in the best possible conditions.
The harvest lasts approximately one month and requires a great deal of organization to ensure its success, from the cutting to the arrival at the winery. Once the grapes have reached the optimum maturity and health parameters, winegrowers tend to bring the harvest forward as much as possible to avoid adverse weather conditions, such as rain. The quality of the harvest will depend mainly on the care taken by the winegrower throughout the year.
At the cooperative, which reinforces its staff at this time of the year, the grapes are weighed so as not to exceed the limits per plot, samples are taken to carry out a correct control of the quality of the grapes, and they are dumped into large receiver hoppers for pressing to obtain the must. The trucks arrive at the winery in the main yard of the cooperative in organized shifts to avoid unwanted fermentations.
The first must, obtained without decanting pressure, is the most highly valued and is called ‘first must press’ (primera yema). The rest of the must or ‘second must press’ (segunda yema) is obtained after applying a pressure of 70%, the maximum allowed by the Control Board regulations. To get an idea of the volume of work involved in the harvest, the cooperative presses an average of 1.2 million kilos of grapes per day (2.6 million lb), although its record is 2 million kilos (4.4 million lb).
Everything is used from the grape. In the pressing process, the stem, the pipe and the skin of the grape are removed. This rest, after filtering, serve us to obtain a product called borujo, from which we distill wine alcohol to be added to sherry wine to increase its alcoholic content, to fortify it.
After preparing the musts to avoid oxidation and contamination and guaranteeing their aromatic finesse, they are poured into the fermentation tanks. A practice that at the beginning of the cooperative was done in wine butts using the old method. There they waited for the arrival of the cold weather at the end of November, which stopped the fermentation process. That is why the old Spanish saying goes ‘Por San Andrés, el mosto vino es’. Nowadays fermentation is carried out in large tanks at a controlled temperature
The wine alcohol obtained from the “borujo“ is added to this young wine of the year. If it is destined for biological aging under “velo de flor” as fino, the adding will reach up to 15 degrees, and up to 18 degrees for future oxidative aging Oloroso wines. In the aging cellar, the barrels are arranged for aging by the traditional system of criaderas y soleras, another great contribution of the Marco to world viticulture.
The Criaderas y Soleras system is our method of aging wine.
The sherry cask has a capacity of 600 liters, double than those used for aging of still wines (white or red). New must of the year refreshes the first criadera, (those butts containing the youngest wine). The refreshed part is racked to the following line of butts in the scale in sequence, until it reaches the necessary aging in the solera, (the last row of butts named from being the closest to the soil). From there, the wine is extracted for its commercialization and consumption a few years later.
The cooperative’s oenologists supervise the entire process, frequently tasting the butts to monitor the evolution of the wine. The tasting of the youngest wines, which occupy the uppermost rows of the butts, is carried out with the help of an “arrumbador”, who climbs up to the last row of the butts and throws the “venencia” to the foreman, who receives it and checks the evolution of the wine. This operation is known as venenciar en 3a.
The cooperative’s oenologist marks the butts with chalk. These marks are very traditional in the Marco de Jerez, and identify the evolution of the wines. If it evolves into a Vino Fino, a diagonal line is drawn. But it sometimes may deviate during aging towards a Palo Cortado. Then another horizontal line will be added to the previous. Olorosos are marked with a circle and Amontillados are marked with a symbol that resembles the letter ‘A’.